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基于皮革装饰工艺的壮锦纹样转化及其在皮革服装中的应用探索

Exploration of the Transformation of Zhuang Brocade Patterns based on Leather Decoration Techniques and their Application in Leather Garments

  • 摘要:
    目的 为推动壮族非物质文化遗产的活态传承与皮革服装的创新设计,以壮锦纹样为研究对象,探索其在皮革服装中的创新应用路径。
    方法 梳理壮锦纹样的文化内涵与艺术特征,从元素提取与技术实践两个维度构建壮锦纹样与皮革服装的融合框架。
    结果 将壮锦自然纹样简化为几何符号、传统色谱转化为皮革适配色调、经典布局重构为立体造型语言,可实现文化符号与材质特性的有机统一;应用编织、激光切割工艺提升了纹样在皮革材质上的视觉表现,实现非遗与时尚服饰的跨界融合。
    结论 壮锦纹样的创新应用不仅丰富了皮革服装的文化表达,也为民族传统纹样的现代转化提供了可借鉴的设计范式。

     

    Abstract:
    Objective To address the bottlenecks of insufficient cultural value-added and homogeneous patterns in high-end leather apparel, this study takes inspiration from Zhuang brocade, a Chinese National Intangible Cultural Heritage, to construct an integrated translation paradigm of "cultural gene translation-leather material adaptation-decorative craft transformation." This paradigm facilitates the cross-material transition of Zhuang brocade from its traditional soft silk/cotton weft structure to stiff leather, ultimately establishing a new paradigm for high-end leather fashion that possesses Eastern cultural genes and international design discourse.
    Methods Based on the cultural gene extraction method, techniques of image semantic analysis and graphic deconstruction were used to preserve the core identifying characteristics of Zhuang brocade patterns. Natural-themed patterns were linearized and modularized to generate leather units suitable for laser cutting and weaving. The color system was reconstructed, and a modern color palette characterized by “low-saturation dominant colors + high-saturation accent nodes” was developed through high-resolution spectral color measurement. Traditional Zhuang brocade colors were converted into leather-compatible hues, balancing cultural recognizability with the premium aesthetic of the material. The process adaptation experiment was carried out using 0.5 mm Polyurethane leather as the substrate. A gradient parameter method ("Speed-Power-Corner Power") was employed to perform and optimize the laser processing parameter for creating fish-pattern perforations and Wan Character Pattern (卍) embossing. Subsequently, laser pre-cutting was used to create "warp" slits at 5 mm intervals. Leather strips were then manually inlaid into these slits, recreating the signature "continuous warp, discontinuous weft" texture of Zhuang brocade. A precision-driven digital chain seamlessly interlocked with the warmth of handcraft, forming a hybrid process where high-accuracy technology and artisanal touch complement each other. Finally, the design was validated through the digital pattern. 3D simulations were conducted on the Style3D platform, and layout strategies employing mirror dislocation and radial extension were adopted to mitigate pattern distortion during body movement. This achieved a fusion of deconstructivist asymmetric cutting with the symmetrical aesthetics inherent to Zhuang brocade.
    Results Natural Zhuang brocade motifs were successfully simplified into geometric symbols (fish pattern, Wan Character Pattern (卍), grid pattern, meander pattern), yielding parameterized leather-adaptable units. The traditional color palette was further translated into tones compatible with leather, establishing a dedicated Zhuang brocade color library for leather garments. On this basis, a transposition process was carried out: a hybrid technique combining laser engraving and hand weaving preserves the "warmth" of intangible cultural heritage while enriching the decorative vocabulary of leather. Taking the fashion design practice themed "Jinluo" as the vehicle, user research and expert evaluation confirmed the feasibility of transposing Zhuang brocade motifs onto leather garments, realizing a cross-over fusion between intangible heritage and contemporary fashion.
    Conclusion This research accomplished the structural transplantation of Zhuang brocade's "continuous warp, discontinuous weft" technique signature onto a leather substrate. It proposed a leather-fashion transposition pathway built on "geometric broken lines − low-saturation hues − laser-cut weaving", breaking through the limitations of traditional appliqué techniques and fabric constraints, and offering a systematic paradigm for the tech-driven, sustainable integration of intangible heritage into high-end leather apparel.

     

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