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羌族羊皮褂的当代意义重构与设计表达

Contemporary Significance and Design Expression of Qiang Goat-skin Vest

  • 摘要:
    目的 羌族羊皮褂作为游牧文明的重要物质遗存,其形制特征与制作技艺体现了羌族“质朴尚简”的民族精神与自然崇拜观念。针对其制作技艺濒危、缺乏完整记录与研究基础的现状,亟需全面记录其制作技艺、建立科学的款式分类体系,并构建其在当代语境下的文化意义重构与设计创新路径。
    方法 基于四川茂县地区的田野考察,结合符号学、模块化设计与材料工艺理论,提出“符号系统转译-功能模块重构-材料工艺革新”三重协同路径,并通过“无垠”主题系列设计实践进行验证。
    结果 研究系统完成了羊皮褂的濒危技艺记录与款式体系划分,通过设计实践实现了文化符号的现代转译、功能模块的智能拓展与环保材料的创新应用,显著提升了服饰的当代适应性与文化表现力。
    结论 该研究填补了羌族羊皮褂系统性研究的空白,构建的传统民族服饰当代转译体系,为非遗技艺的活态传承提供了兼具理论价值与实践意义的创新范式。

     

    Abstract:
    Objective As a significant material legacy of Qiang nomadic civilization, the goat-skin vest carries profound ethnic memory and spiritual beliefs. However, amid social transformation and modernization, its traditional production techniques face a severe inheritance crisis, and systematic documentation of craftsmanship and style classification remains largely unaddressed. This study aims to systematically record the endangered production techniques of the Qiang goat-skin vest through in-depth field research in Maoxian County, Sichuan Province, complete a scientific classification of its style system, and construct a systematic pathway for its contemporary significance reconstruction and design transformation, thereby facilitating the living heritage of intangible skills and the continuation of cultural genes.
    Methods This research systematically examined the historical origins, formal classifications, and production techniques of the goat-skin vest by adopting an interdisciplinary approach that integrates field investigations, in-depth interviews, and design practices. Through field surveys in Maoxian County, first-hand data were collected to systematically organize the historical and cultural origins, tanning techniques, style classifications, and current development status of the vest. Based on semiotics, modular design theory, and material technology, a triple synergistic innovation framework of “symbolic system translation−functional module restructuring−material and craftsmanship innovation” was proposed. In the design practice, daily wear and performance wear were used as carriers under the "Infinite Vastness" thematic series. Methods such as parametric pattern generation, detachable module systems, and eco-material substitution were employed to promote the contemporary transformation of traditional attire.
    Results The study achieved four main outcomes. First, it systematically organized the historical and cultural origins, technical characteristics, and development status of the goat-skin vest, fully documented its endangered production techniques, and for the first time, completed a systematic classification of traditional and performance styles. Second, in symbolic system translation, topological analysis and parametric algorithms were used to structurally reorganize traditional motifs such as cloud and horn patterns, generating a new graphic system that integrates traditional genes with contemporary aesthetics, thereby achieving the modern translation of cultural symbols. Third, in functional module restructuring, a system centered on a basic vest with detachable modules was constructed. The daily version used magnetic interfaces for quick changes, while the performance version incorporated light-sensitive materials and LED systems to enhance stage expressiveness, significantly improving the garment's adaptability to different scenarios. Fourth, in materials and craftsmanship, through the application of eco-materials and process integration, a combination of vegetable tanning, synthetic leather, and composite fabrics was adopted to enhance wearing comfort and sustainability while preserving cultural symbolism. The co-creation mechanism with craftsmen ensured the unity of cultural authenticity and technical feasibility. The "Infinite Vastness" series received positive feedback in visual expression, functional experience, and cultural narrative.
    Conclusion This research systematically completed the documentation of endangered techniques and style classification of the Qiang goat-skin vest, filling a gap in this field. Through the systematic integration of the triple pathway "symbolic system translation-functional module restructuring-material and craftsmanship innovation", the Qiang goat-skin vest has been effectively transformed from a material relic into a living cultural carrier in the contemporary context. This pathway not only provides methodological support for the living heritage of Qiang attire but also offers a reusable theoretical model and practical paradigm for the contemporary innovative design of similar ethnic garments. Future research should further explore the compatibility of eco-materials, digital dissemination mechanisms for intangible cultural heritage, and community-based collaborative innovation networks to build a more resilient and adaptive cultural inheritance ecosystem.

     

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